Replace Traefik with kamal-proxy

[kamal-proxy](https://github.com/basecamp/kamal-proxy) is a custom
minimal proxy designed specifically for Kamal.

It has some advantages over Traefik:
1. Imperative deployments - we tell it to switch from container A to
   container B, and it waits for container B to start then switches. No
   need to poll for health checks ourselves or mess around with forcing
   health checks to fail.
2. Support for multiple apps - as much as possible, configuration is
   supplied at runtime by the deploy command, allowing us to have
   multiple apps share a proxy without conflicting config.
3. First class support for Kamal operations - rather than trying to
   work out how to make Traefik do what we want, we can build features
   directly into the proxy, making configuration simpler and avoiding
   obscure errors

README.md

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 # Kamal: Deploy web apps anywhere
 
-From bare metal to cloud VMs, deploy web apps anywhere with zero downtime. Kamal has the dynamic reverse-proxy Traefik hold requests while a new app container is started and the old one is stopped. Works seamlessly across multiple hosts, using SSHKit to execute commands. Originally built for Rails apps, Kamal will work with any type of web app that can be containerized with Docker.
+From bare metal to cloud VMs, deploy web apps anywhere with zero downtime. Kamal uses a [custom proxy](https://github.com/basecamp/kamal-proxy) for zero-downtime deployments. Works seamlessly across multiple hosts, using SSHKit to execute commands. Originally built for Rails apps, Kamal will work with any type of web app that can be containerized with Docker.
 
 ➡️ See [kamal-deploy.org](https://kamal-deploy.org) for documentation on [installation](https://kamal-deploy.org/docs/installation), [configuration](https://kamal-deploy.org/docs/configuration), and [commands](https://kamal-deploy.org/docs/commands).